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Portraits from Napa’s Old School: Cathy Corison

by WinechapNYC on June 3, 2010

in Terroirs

Post image for Portraits from Napa’s Old School: Cathy Corison Back in 1972, Cathy Corison was one of the only women making wine in the Napa Valley. After graduating from UC Davis, Corison went on to cut her teeth at Staglin Family, Chapellet, York, and Long Meadow Ranch (a place that still upholds her preference for restraint today and whose wines we’ll be profiling in the next few days) before purchasing her own estate on the bench land between St. Helena and Rutherford in the late 80s. Over the past 40 years, Corison has watched the valley change tremendously—Del Dotto, located just next door, serves as a constant reminder—but her wines have remained true to her original style, a style that is still marginal and relatively unpopular amidst the spoofed-up, score-chasing cult Cabs that have dominated the valley’s production over the last several years. Her wines are never over 13.5% alcohol, they age incredibly well (the back vintage are available in the market at very reasonable prices), and there is a true distinctiveness across vintages that make her wines difficult to mistake—in drinking them, it’s hard to believe we aren’t finding Napa Cab with this kind of elegance in greater numbers. Simply put, they’re proof that this valley is capable of making some of the best Cabernet in the world.  So, as Napa’s framework shifts and its young history continues to be written, one can only hope that the hunger for power over restraint is waning and that the new generation will look to wines such as Corison’s as the true beacons of Napa Valley winemaking. Where to buy: Crush Wine & Spirits, Uva Wines, Park Avenue Liquor Where to drink: Gramercy Tavern, Trestle on Tenth, Craft Bar, Eleven Madison Park, etc.
  • Rob Perelli-Minetti
    I have been drinking California Cabernet since the mid-1950s, and have had most of the great vintages of the 20th century from the most producers most respected by the old timers, beginning with the 34 Inglenook and 35 Simi, continuing with both Inglenook and Beaulieu reserve '41s, and so on down to the point at which it is impossible for anyone but a professional to taste everything. On the basis of some 50+ years of experience, I would say unequivocally that no one makes better Cabernet in Napa today than Cathy does. I've had her wines back to the '96, and every one has been in great shape. In 2008, the '97 was still a young wine, with the promise of a 30+ year life. Just a fortnight ago, we tasted the 2001, 2003, and 2003. Remarkable wines, the 2001 was showing particularly well, with an amazing bouquet of violets.
  • Agree 100% Corison's wines are classically styled, and the epitome of less is often so much more than more. When I was on a tasting panel at a magazine, her wines would always stand out (though not always such that we could identify the label) in our blind tastings. While her cabs are, I think, clearly "Napa," they are dissimilar in the best possible way from many of her so-called peers. Thanks for sending a little love her way!
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