While out in the Valley, I had the chance to meet with Stu and Charlie Smith of Smith-Madrone, a winery that still remains on the margins despite producing some of the best wine on Spring Mountain.
The Smiths came to Napa with their eyes on a high-elevation vineyard area of the Valley that had been abandoned since Prohibition. At the time (the early 1970s, that is), the area was complete forest, save one winery: the still-brilliant Stony Hill. The brothers figured that if this lone winery was making the best Chardonnay in California, they could try and do the same by planting next door. And so, they did. Forty years—and more than 30 Spring Mountain producers—later, the Smiths continue to make some of the best Riesling, Chardonnay, and Cabernet in all of California. They pick their fruit early to keep their alcohol levels low, and the elevation of their vineyards ensures that the acidity levels are sound. The brothers have experimented with different vinification regimes over the years, but the wines—as well as their beards— have maintained a focus and singularity that, in our opinion, remains one of the clearest expressions of Spring Mountain terroir there is.
The wines remain relatively obscure and difficult to find on the East Coast, but don’t fret, they can be purchased directly from the winery at (www.smithmadrone.com). Below are a few retail sources that carry the wines nationwide:
Wally’s Wines (2008 Riesling)
K&L Wines (2007 Chardonnay)
Varietal Wines (2004 Cabernet)
Portraits from Napa’s Old School: Smith-Madrone
While out in the Valley, I had the chance to meet with Stu and Charlie Smith of Smith-Madrone, a winery that still remains on the margins despite producing some of the best wine on Spring Mountain.
The Smiths came to Napa with their eyes on a high-elevation vineyard area of the Valley that had been abandoned since Prohibition. At the time (the early 1970s, that is), the area was complete forest, save one winery: the still-brilliant Stony Hill. The brothers figured that if this lone winery was making the best Chardonnay in California, they could try and do the same by planting next door. And so, they did. Forty years—and more than 30 Spring Mountain producers—later, the Smiths continue to make some of the best Riesling, Chardonnay, and Cabernet in all of California. They pick their fruit early to keep their alcohol levels low, and the elevation of their vineyards ensures that the acidity levels are sound. The brothers have experimented with different vinification regimes over the years, but the wines—as well as their beards— have maintained a focus and singularity that, in our opinion, remains one of the clearest expressions of Spring Mountain terroir there is.
The wines remain relatively obscure and difficult to find on the East Coast, but don’t fret, they can be purchased directly from the winery at (www.smithmadrone.com). Below are a few retail sources that carry the wines nationwide:
Wally’s Wines (2008 Riesling)
K&L Wines (2007 Chardonnay)
Varietal Wines (2004 Cabernet)
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