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Will Napa’s Old School Lead The New?

by WinechapNYC on June 2, 2010

in Terroirs

Post image for Will Napa’s Old School Lead The New? At the beginning of the 1970s, Napa Valley was home to less than 50 winemakers. Today the valley boasts more than 450. If I could still use a calculator, I’d give you an actual growth percentage, but let’s just settle on the fact that it’s a lot. Now, one might imagine that with all of the growth in both influence and technology over the last 40 years, those 50 some-odd producers kicking up Rutherford dust might have lost their relevance in the boom. Not so. In fact, many of the winemakers who came to Napa in the ‘70s still remain some of the most enlightened. As the region began to flood with winemakers from various backgrounds all heading to Napa as if it was the Sacramento River circa 1848, the style of Napa wines slowly began to shift: low alcohol wines that favored elegance over power made way for fleshier, more extracted wines with high levels of alcohol (this shift became most noticeable around the mid 90s). Now, I’ll refrain from sharing my opinion on why we ended up with big, extracted wines—some of which border on flammable­—as the dominant style preference because my perspective is predictable. The point is: Napa’s once-dominant “restrained” style has now become novel amidst the new. In fact, many of the winemakers that shaped CA’s wine culture in the 70s have remained true to their original house style, and even after more than 30 years and 400 new wineries, these same trailblazers are becoming more and more important within the evolving framework of Napa Valley winemaking. Over the next week we’ll highlight a few of our favorite winemakers, their history, and of course, their wines. Stay tuned and do let us know who your favorite old-school CA producers are in the comments section.
  • I just interviewed Kent Rasmussen of Kent Rasmussen Winery in Napa Valley this past Friday and we were discussing this very same subject. It's very interesting to get an old school winemaker's point of view on how Napa Valley has changed in the past 30 years and is still changing. Great subject for your blog!
  • Rob Perelli-Minetti
    We were at Kent Rasmussen's winery the third week in July. We tasted an interesting vertical of his '79 (his first vintage), '84, '06, and 0'7 Pinot Noir -- all made from fruit grown in the same vineyard in Carneros. While the '79 was clearly well past its prime, it was still interesting with a complex bottle bouquet - reminded me of more typical Napa Pinot of the '60s, the '84 still had good fruit and balance; showing Kent's emerging style very nicely. Not a wine for novices at that age, but with some life left in it. It was interesting to hear Kent reflect on how his style had changed over the years and how returning to some of the earlier vintages as they have aged well has focused him on a more traditional style.

    The '06 and '07 showed the different charms of those vintages: the '06 was a bit more forward (but not overly so) and better for drinking now, while the '07 has more depth and concentration. The '07 is fine now, but because it has the makings to develop into something altogether more serious, I'm laying it down for a minimum of five years.

    As part of a family in which a great uncle made some of the first wines that put Beaulieu on the map in the early 20th century, it seems odd to describe Kent (and Cathy) as 'old school' in Napa, but in the current environment with the emphasis on fruit forward wines, picked at high Brix with the resulting high alcohols, I suppose it's accurate to consider them as keepers of the flame, both true to visions they had more than 30 years ago, when winemakers like Andre T and George Deuer were still around.
  • pahlmeyer!
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