In the sea of modernist pirates all searching for the same 100-point treasure, there sail a few mavericks, crusaders if you will, who have managed to blaze a more spirited path in search of something larger – something unique and personality-driven. Whether it be the quest to prove that there is indeed such a thing as CA terroir (Edmunds St. John), the guts to show bravery in alchemic experimentation (Scholium Project), the courage to honestly embrace the true capriciousness of wine (Bonny Doon), or the fortitude to confirm that true artisan spirit is hiding all over the New World (Kalin Cellars), we just can’t help but want to hug ourselves when we stumble upon this kind of vigor and candor. It is, after all, what makes all of this boozing worth the hangover.
‘Wylie-Fenaughty’ 2005, Edmunds St. John – Edmunds St. John is what we wish CA had more of. Steve Edmunds is a lover of the Old World and a denouncer of all things overripe. His wines have serious character, restraint, and elegance. Only 300 cases of this bad boy made, so drink up.
Where to Buy: Chambers Street,
Crush
Where to Drink: Irving Mill,
Oceana,
Blue Ribbon Downing St. Bar,
Insieme
Read more on Edmunds St. John
‘Cena Trimalchionis’ 2005, Scholium Project - Totally off the wall. From swearing off soap to desiring to “banish fruit flavors in wine”, Abe Schroeder’s view on viticulture and vinification is as counterintuitive as his wines are psychedelic. This particular bottling (100% Sauvignon Blanc; from botrytised fruit) is considered the craziest wine he’s ever made. The name “Cena Trimalchionis,” (Roman novel Satyricon) alludes to the extraordinary tension between complex opulence and focused, clean acidity.
Where to Buy: Saratoga Wine Exchange,
Crush Wines (various bottlings available)
Where to Drink: Per Se,
DBGB,
Savoy
Read more on the Scholium Project
‘Le Cigar Volant’ 2004, Bonny Doon – Randall Graham’s homage to Chateaneuf du Pape is rolled tight with Old World sensibility, and one of the most impressive CA wines in this price point. Plenty of warm, dark fruit, and the stink to go with it.
Where to Buy: Sherry Lehmann,
Le Du’s Wines
Where to Drink: Apiary,
The Spotted Pig,
Prune,
The Grocery,
Klee Brasserie
Read more on Bonny Doon
Pinot Noir ‘Cuvee DD’ 1997, Kalin Cellars – Winery of dollhouse proportions making traditional wines (minimal manipulation, no filtration, etc.) in quantities undetectable to the human eye. Still plenty of fruit and a full forest spectrum showing forth.
Chardonnay ‘Cuvée W’ 1994, Kalin Cellars – Aged sur lie (like all of their whites) for 11 months, this is one yeasty, powerful chard.
Where to Buy: Elite Wines,
Sokolin
Where to Drink: Craft Bar,
Minetta Tavern,
Insieme,
The Harrison
Read more on Kalin Cellars
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