For as long as anyone can remember, the culture of wine production in Champagne has been dominated by the likes of Moët, Mumm, Taittinger, Perrier-Jouët, etc. while the growers behind them have remained largely anonymous. However, with the advent of spirited individuals like artisan Champagne’s designated prophet, Terry Theise, these growers have begun to bottle their own wine, and are slowly creeping into mainstream consciousness.
But Theise’s designation as Champagne’s prophet isn’t just attributed to his increasing the availability of these wines stateside. Theise—and others like Doug Polaner, Rosenthal, et al.—are working to change this country’s perspective on Champagne. Each have passionately embraced the enthusiastic marketing of this “farmer fizz”, urging consumers to appreciate distinctiveness over manufactured prettiness (an ideology at odds with the big names). That is, acknowledging, as Theise writes in his manifesto “[that] great wine has soul, and soul is expressed as a trinity of family, soil, and artisanality.” For those of us who have been celebrating the recent rise of small production, terroir-driven wines, this is a simple concept, but in the world of bubbly, it remains a shockingly novel one.
So, this week WineChap urges you to explore Champagne not as a luxury good, but as an imperfect, spirited, and handcrafted wine. Below are five glorious, value-driven grower Champagnes that’ll have you swearing off the ol’ Clicq for good.
Brut Tradition 1er Cru NV, Roger Coulon
Fantastic grower Champagne with minimal dosage and a rusticity that will charm the hell out of even the stiffest detractors. This is a fine intro to the house style. Medium-bodied and thoroughly brioche-d.
Where to buy: Hudson Wine Merchants
Where to drink: Babbo
Carte Blanche Oger NV, Jean-Milan
One of the several handfuls of exquisite grower Champagnes in Terry Theise’s portfolio. Focused, mineral-driven Blanc des Blancs, with whimsical, polished fruit. An incredible value for this level of precision.
Where to buy: Astor Wines
Where to drink: Per Se, 10 Downing
Brut 1er Cru ‘Grand Cellier’ NV, Vilmart & Cie
This culty stuff. Old-school bubbly raised in ancient casks and subjected to Vilmart’s quest for perfection. Polished, flamboyant, and often transcendent.
Where to buy: Astor Wines, Uva Wines
Where to drink: Freeman’s
Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV, Ulysse Collin
One of the most exciting new producers in Champagne. Bottling from his family’s (formerly rented to Pommery) 9 hectare site, Collin produces only two wines: a Blanc de Blancs and a Blanc de Noir. Studying under Selosse (one of the region’s great mavericks and proponents of terroir-driven bubbly), Collin makes raw, no dosage wines that are precise, focused and exhibit the kind of fragile beauty characteristic of great Blanc de Blancs Champagne.
Where to buy: Crush, Chambers Street
Champagne Grand Cru NV, Egly-Ouriet
One of the original artisan growers to bottle wine under his own name successfully. Unfiltered, hippie bubbly that sees long lees contact, resulting in a ripe, yeasty, perfectly executed wine.
Where to buy: NY Vintners, Garnet
Where to drink: Bar Boulud, Perilla
Farmer Fizz Is For Lovers
For as long as anyone can remember, the culture of wine production in Champagne has been dominated by the likes of Moët, Mumm, Taittinger, Perrier-Jouët, etc. while the growers behind them have remained largely anonymous. However, with the advent of spirited individuals like artisan Champagne’s designated prophet, Terry Theise, these growers have begun to bottle their own wine, and are slowly creeping into mainstream consciousness.
But Theise’s designation as Champagne’s prophet isn’t just attributed to his increasing the availability of these wines stateside. Theise—and others like Doug Polaner, Rosenthal, et al.—are working to change this country’s perspective on Champagne. Each have passionately embraced the enthusiastic marketing of this “farmer fizz”, urging consumers to appreciate distinctiveness over manufactured prettiness (an ideology at odds with the big names). That is, acknowledging, as Theise writes in his manifesto “[that] great wine has soul, and soul is expressed as a trinity of family, soil, and artisanality.” For those of us who have been celebrating the recent rise of small production, terroir-driven wines, this is a simple concept, but in the world of bubbly, it remains a shockingly novel one.
So, this week WineChap urges you to explore Champagne not as a luxury good, but as an imperfect, spirited, and handcrafted wine. Below are five glorious, value-driven grower Champagnes that’ll have you swearing off the ol’ Clicq for good.
Brut Tradition 1er Cru NV, Roger Coulon
Fantastic grower Champagne with minimal dosage and a rusticity that will charm the hell out of even the stiffest detractors. This is a fine intro to the house style. Medium-bodied and thoroughly brioche-d.
Where to buy: Hudson Wine Merchants
Where to drink: Babbo
Carte Blanche Oger NV, Jean-Milan
One of the several handfuls of exquisite grower Champagnes in Terry Theise’s portfolio. Focused, mineral-driven Blanc des Blancs, with whimsical, polished fruit. An incredible value for this level of precision.
Where to buy: Astor Wines
Where to drink: Per Se, 10 Downing
Brut 1er Cru ‘Grand Cellier’ NV, Vilmart & Cie
This culty stuff. Old-school bubbly raised in ancient casks and subjected to Vilmart’s quest for perfection. Polished, flamboyant, and often transcendent.
Where to buy: Astor Wines, Uva Wines
Where to drink: Freeman’s
Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV, Ulysse Collin
One of the most exciting new producers in Champagne. Bottling from his family’s (formerly rented to Pommery) 9 hectare site, Collin produces only two wines: a Blanc de Blancs and a Blanc de Noir. Studying under Selosse (one of the region’s great mavericks and proponents of terroir-driven bubbly), Collin makes raw, no dosage wines that are precise, focused and exhibit the kind of fragile beauty characteristic of great Blanc de Blancs Champagne.
Where to buy: Crush, Chambers Street
Champagne Grand Cru NV, Egly-Ouriet
One of the original artisan growers to bottle wine under his own name successfully. Unfiltered, hippie bubbly that sees long lees contact, resulting in a ripe, yeasty, perfectly executed wine.
Where to buy: NY Vintners, Garnet
Where to drink: Bar Boulud, Perilla
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