A little while back we had the honor of rubbing shoulders with the beloved wine importer Kermit Lynch at the Brooklyn Botanical Gardens. Despite an inexplicably disorganized setting wherein almost everyone in attendance was either in line and drink-less, confused, or upset about the lonely combination of olives and raisin bread on the snack table (or all of the above), we still managed to fight the many obstacles for a little quality K. time.
For those of you who are hearing the name Kermit without the requisite frog for the first time, Mr. Lynch, in short, is undoubtedly one of the most influential wine personalities of the last three decades. Since stumbling through France with an unmatched and progressive enthusiasm for honest, traditional winemaking, Kermit has continued to challenge America’s wine-consciousness. Let’s put it this way: he did for wine what Alice Waters did for food. He brought it back down to earth, challenged the pomp, and sought to teach people how to appreciate unadulterated wine–as he would say–“on its own terms.” This week we present just a small sampling of some of the grit and grandeur that has come to define the Kermie Lynch portfolio.
Bouzeron Aligote 2006, A&P De Villaine – Aligote is an ancient Burgundian varietal that has managed to remain one of the region’s best-kept secrets. Sourced from vines planted by the monks of Cluny in the Middle Ages, and now owned and operated by Aubert Villiane of the mythical Domaine de la Romanee Conti, this is storied juice with a serious pedigree. Tastes like lightning, white fruit, and tea.
Where to Buy: Columbus Wines, Chelsea Wine Vault
Where to Drink: Megu Midtown
Gigondas 2005, Domaine Les Pallieres – Run by the Brunier Brothers of the legendary Vieux Telegraphe estate in Chateaneuf du Pape, this wine embodies the true potential of Gigondas. It may hail from just next door to its more famous neighbor, but Gigo is capable of owning the same interplay of grit and finesse. Pure, herbaceous, and thoroughly rugged, this needs a short spin in the decanter to dull its thorns.
Where to Buy: Crush Wines and Spirits , Chambers Street
Where to Drink: The Spotted Pig, Aquagrill
Vin de Table ‘YL’ 2005, Domaine Yves Leccia - The cool thing about Corsica is that given its geographical location–a Mediterranean island pretty much equidistant from France and Italy–it gets to play with an interesting mix of grape varieties from both hoods. The land itself may be the property of France, but characteristically, the wines belong to neither nation, instead existing of their own volition within this little isolated, non-competitive, safe zone. Here we have a fittingly non-denominational blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Nielluciu (i.e. Sangiovese). Highly aromatic with notes of tea, flowers, and salt.
Where to Buy: 67 Wine, Thirst Wine Merchants
Where to Drink: WD50, BLT Market
Chinon ‘Les Petit Roches’ 2005, Charles Joguet – Joguet produces some of the most sought after old school Cab Franc on the market. All bramble, bell pepper, and slate quotas filled here, along with a hefty dose of that downright miraculous ‘05 fruit—a fine introduction to one of Chinon’s great ambassadors that’s drinking quite hospitably at present.
Where to Buy: Uva Wines, 67 Wines (2006)
Where to Drink: Blue Ribbon Downing St. Bar, Aureole
