'inoteca vino, cucina e liquori bar
- Rating:
- Address:
- 323 3rd Ave New York, NY 10010-2320
- Phone:
- 212-683-3035
- Good for:
- Italian, Old World, Quirky, Great Value, Mature vintages
List review date: April 11, 2010
List Summary
This is easily one of the most ambitious Italian lists in the city and one that is not only sprawling but also democratic. On the top-end, most of the wines are at or below retail (see: ‘93 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino @ $400, ‘93 Quintarelli Amarone @ $390), which in the world of wine lists is about as rare as us actually enjoying ourselves in Murray Hill.But it’s not just the value that has our heart rates up around 180, it’s the vintage depth and the range of wines within that depth. And it isn’t just a nice chunk of back vintage Brunello and Barolo; the list boasts a cache of rarities from Cantina Terlan whites from the ‘70’s, ‘80’s, and ‘90’s, to a vertical of Paolo Bea Sagrantino, to (drum roll) ‘66 Movia Rebula.
In short, this is heaven for wine nerds, collectors, and the unassuming diner alike. Our only gripe is that we have to eat a sandwich with a ‘64 Monfortino. But, until Denton-squared can transfer this approach to their next, more ambitious culinary endeavor -- we are more than happy to eat sammies in Murray Hill as long as all of this highfalutin booze stays on sale.
- By The Glass
- Red Basilicata Bianco 2008, Re Manfredi | $12
- Red Lacrima di Morra D’Alba 2007, Conti di Buscareto | $10
- Value Option
- White Bianchetta ‘U Pastine’ 2007, Bisson | $36
Another killer from the master. Vinfied from the local Bianchetta Genovese grape. Quite broad for the region, with a rich expansive palate to counter the trademark briny minerality that makes Liguria’s wines thrilling to drink. - Red Pelaverga 2007, Burlotto | $31
Rare Piemontese varietal that is just starting to hit the scene. Sourced from young vines and produced in miniscule amounts this newbie is bursting with bright red fruit and backed up by a food insistent acidic streak. Light enough for seafood, structured enough for animal. - Red Il Granaccio 2007, Bisson | $45
100% Grenache from the Riviera. Concentrated, but quite lithe due to all that disgusting cool ocean air. Gorgeous aromatics. Might even give this one a decant to get the juices flowing. - White Blanc de Morgex ‘Nathan’ 2006, Pavese Ermes | $90
100% Prie Blanc from Italy’s most remote wine making area. Crisp Alpine acidity with a bit more body than we have come to expect from this area’s wines. Only 6,000 bottles of this wine are made a year. We dig the exclusivity. - Red Ghemme ‘Colis Breclemae’ 1999, Cantalupo | $95
Single vineyard Nebbiolo from Ghemme’s (just north of Barolo/barbaresco) best producer. This ‘99 is just starting to give us a real look at its guts. Medium bodied and bright, with herbs and earth exposed. A decant can’t hurt here. - Red Cabernet Sauvignon Riserva 1997, Hofstatter | $58
We love all things Hofstatter, and stumbling upon their slightly dusty Cab is indeed fortuitous. If you aren’t familiar with how Cab performs in Friuli, you best get acquainted. Medium to full bodied with well-integrated tannins and plenty of bramble. - White Vintage Tunina 2006, Jermann | $125
One of (if not the most) famous Italian whites. Year after year this baby has critics and geeks fainting at tasting tables all over the world. Rich, barrel-aged Super Friulian blend. Can’t go wrong here. - White Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 1999, Valentini | $125
Trebbiano is not known for much beyond mediocrity, but Valentini--being the sorcerer that he is--has prestidigitated divine deliciousness on this benign varietal. This is definitely quirky and dominated by earth and minerals but it captivates with the kind of dewy life-breathing purity that only the greatest wines can achieve. Heaven for wine nerds. - Red Sagrantino ‘Collepiano’ 1998, Arnaldo Caprai | $110
Sagrantino is an Umbrian powerhouse of a grape that has recently been enjoying quite the renaissance. It’s not often that we see back vintages gracing the pages of a wine list and this is downright irresistible. Fantastic vintage. Full, expansive dark fruit and plenty of tertiary yumminess. - Red Barbaresco ‘Sori Paitin’ 1989, Paitin | $175
This is the equivalent of robbing a bank in broad daylight. Beyond a steal. Paitin makes some of the most intense traditional Barbaresco and the ‘89 is simply cooing right now. Just do it.
- White Bianchetta ‘U Pastine’ 2007, Bisson | $36
- 1st Date
- Red Teroldego 2004, Marion | $65
One of the Veneto’s masterminds. Tell your date that Teroldego originates from Trentino, but Marion has found a way to make this grape dance with abandon just next door. Rich, caressing, and outgoing. Just like you. - White Pinot Bianco 2007, Franco Toros | $70
Franco Toros is known for taking Pinot Bianco to new heights on Italian soil. This now-iconic bottling is dripping with leesy richness, citrus, minerals, and earth.
- Red Teroldego 2004, Marion | $65
- Off the Beaten Track
- White Ribolla Gialla Anfora 2001, Gravner | $165
The leader of the non-interventionist winemaking movement in Fruili (yes, it’s a movement) and one of the most captivating artisan winemakers in Italy. Vinified exclusively in giant clay amphora buried in the ground (ancient roman style), drinking this wine is like falling off a veritable cliff of wine reason. Tannic, earth driven, and perspective changing wine. Tread carefully. - White Kaplija Bianco 2004, Damijan | $95
Student of Gravner. No Amphoras here, but long macerations and lees aging all combine to produce a wine that fits neatly into the non-interventionist genre. Heaven for wine nerds. - Red Gropello ‘Discobollo’ 2006, Pratello | $36
Primarily vinified from the local Gropello grape. Cool stuff with a curiously viscous mouthfeel and delicate aromatics.
- White Ribolla Gialla Anfora 2001, Gravner | $165
- Old School Classic
- Red Barolo ‘Falletto di Serralunga 1989, Bruno Giacosa | $300
- Red Barolo 1961, Giacomo Conterno | $500
- Red Barolo Monfortino Riserva 1998, Giacomo Conterno | $400
- Treat Yourself
- Red Barolo ‘Vignolo’ Riserva 1989, Cavallotto | $250
The dark horse of Barolo. The family has been making some of the most stunning Barolo for five generations and their wines still remain remarkably affordable. This is drinking exceptionally well at the moment—medium bodied with a lot of forest floor action. - Red Barolo ‘Rocche dei Brovia’ 1982, Brovia | $265
Again, another dark horse. Great traditional Baroli have been flowing from the house of Brovia to be gobbled up by the Nebbiolo nerds in the know. The ‘82s drink lean and impossibly pretty at the moment. Contemplative stuff. - Red Amarone della Valpolicella 1993, Giuseppe Quintarelli | $390
Another cult gem from one of the co-rulers of the Veneto (he shares the seat with his ex-student, Dal Forno Romano). This is a rare opportunity to drink one of his wines at peak without liquidating your IRA. Just to give you an idea of just how good this deal is--this wine, if you can find it, retails for around $600 (i.e. $1000-$1200 on a list).
- Red Barolo ‘Vignolo’ Riserva 1989, Cavallotto | $250
- Crowd pleaser
- Red Morellino di Scansano 2006, Moris Farms | $35
- White Blanc de Sers 2006, Casata Monfort | $36
- Over the Hill
- White Sauvignon 1999, Movia | $65
- White Lacryma Christi Bianco 2004, Villa Dora | $45
- House Wine Stats
- 28 available by the glass at an average price of $10.57. 25 available by the carafe at an average price of $20.52.
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