Bar Boulud
- Rating:
- Address:
- 1900 Broadway # 2 New York, NY 10023-7004
- Phone:
- 212-595-0303
- Good for:
- French, New World, Old World, Biodynamic / Organic
List review date: April 1, 2010
List Summary
Bar Boulud reminds us of why us chaps dedicate day and night to the craft of boozing in restaurants. In thirty-two precise and focused pages, Daniel Johnnes and Michael Madrigale manage to compile a hit list of the greatest wines from both the Rhone and Burgundy, with nods to his personal favorites across the globe. The organization is impeccable and good-looking to boot (dig the font). For Burgundy and the Rhone, the wine list is divided sensibly into three parts: Les Decouvertes (Discoveries), Les Classiques, and Les Legendes. Wines made in other areas of the world from French varietals (i.e. Grenache, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah, and Viognier) are listed under the heading “Les Cousins.”, in addition to a catchall section entitled: “Le Coups de Coeur” (top picks) which captures the remaining stray objects of affection.Like all of the Daniel Johnnes captained lists, this feels like a standard anthology of old-school French wine. And by calling it such, we mean no disrespect. If we did, we’d have to send ourselves to a damp, cold room to repent. He is effectively a demi-God of the high-end French-centric list in NYC, and with this list he maintains the standard that he himself has set, many times over.
Despite that this is about as un-bar as any bar can get (unless, you consider foie gras the equivalent of chex party mix), this is a fantastic place to have a drink and a casual order of organ paste or brain terrine. The wines by the glass are available by both the taste and the full pour, but the taste (might as well make this a rule of thumb) is the best way to go as the pours are always a bit more generous than perhaps intended.
In short, this is a mini Graceland for Francophiles that manages to cover the country’s nooks and crannies with a precise pen and a clear preference for classicism in true Johnnes form.
Oh, and don’t forget to make your way to the Raveneau-Dauvissat face-off that acts the list’s last grandstand. We recommend bringing a group of friends with deep pockets and piggy-backing your way through the entire vertical. Godspeed.
- By The Glass
- White Riesling Trocken, Rhienhessen, 2008, Keller | $12
- White Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 'Sybele' 2007, JL Chave | $17
- Red Collines Rhodaniennes 'La Chevaliere' 2007, Patrick Jasmin | $16
- Value Option
- White Pouilly Fuisse V.V. 2007, Domaine Corsin | $69
Excellent producer of affordable St-Veran and Puilly-Fuisse, here with their old vines Pouilly from the linear ‘07 vintage. Plenty of stuffing and enough speed to blaze a trail through any and all charcuterie. - White Riesling Smaragd ‘Wachstum Bodenstein’ 2007, Prager | $55
Perhaps the finest deal on all of the list This is a planted geek freebie for those in the know. Statuesque Austrian sling from the inimitable ’07 vintage. - Red Cote de Beaune 2006, Domaine Joseph Drouhin | $50
Drouhin hit it out of the ballpark with this elegant, food-friendly, PN. Hardly a surprise from this standard-bearer of quality. Bright, forward, and thoroughly vivacious. - Red Irancy 'Les Mazelots' 2006, Domaine Goisot | $69
Serious noms from this husband and wife team working in the obscure Irancy appellation north of Chablis. Coaxed from a tiny plot of century-old vines, this has an old-school PN at a fraction of the cost of its Cote d'Or neighbors. With less than 200 cases produced each year, best act fast. - Red Minervois ‘Maestoso’ 2005, L’Oustal Blanc | $90
This blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan smells like a Zin and drinks like pure S. France. Olives, funk, and warm southern fruit. - Red Hermitage Rouge 2000, Eric Texier | $69
Relatively new on the scene, Texier is already gaining buzz for his raw, biodynamic Syrah. A throwback to the N. Rhone wines from the 70s—that is, those that showed true elegance on a Burgundian scale. Beautiful, old school Syrah: the way God intended it to be.
- White Pouilly Fuisse V.V. 2007, Domaine Corsin | $69
- 1st Date
- White Riesling ‘Von Der Fels’ 2008, Weingut Keller | $75
One of the great gems from the Moore Brother’s crown. Classic, precise, sling that is worth far more than its asking price. - Red Morgon 'Cote du Py' 2008, Domaine Jean Foillard | $69
Blessed by the elite importer, Kermit Lynch, Foillard's Cru Beaujys are simply some of the best. Grown on what is probably single best plot of land in all Beaujolais, fermented with natural yeasts and left unfiltered, this baby bleeds terroir.
- White Riesling ‘Von Der Fels’ 2008, Weingut Keller | $75
- Off the Beaten Track
- White Valais 'Amigne de Vetroz' Switzerland 2007, Romain Papilloud | $99
Vinified from 100% Amigne, an obscure late-ripening varietal grown only in the Valais. Unique, forward, worthy of a rainbow. Add Boudin Blanc, shake well
- White Valais 'Amigne de Vetroz' Switzerland 2007, Romain Papilloud | $99
- Old School Classic
- Red Clos Vougeot 1995, Domaine Rene Engel | $395
- White Puligny-Montrachet “Les Enseigneres”, 1999, Coche-Dury | $650
- Red Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru “Les Chaumes”, 1995, Maison Leroy | $295
- Red Musigny, 1964, Comte Georges De Vogüe, 1972 | $2,260
- Red Châteauneuf-Du-Pape, 1990, Château Rayas | $2,000
- Treat Yourself
- Sparkling Brut Rose, NV, Billecart-Salmon | $169
The premier family-owned estate in Champagne. Wines of incredible grace and complexity that could handedly arm-wrestle with any of the top houses. Our favorite NV Rose in all of Champagne. The kind of wine that makes you feel far groovier than you actually are. Offering us brioche, grapefruit, class, and little false confidence. - White Meursault ‘Le Tesson’ 1999, Domaine Jean-Philippe Fichet | $159
Fichet’s wines are known for their exceptional ageing potential, and this village Meursault undisputedly proves it. You can’t argue this if you wanted to. Don’t try. You’ll fail. - White Meursault 1er Cru 'Perrieres' 1986, Domaine Pierre Morey | $265
The name Pierre Morey is synonymous with talent in the Cote d'Or. Former sharecropper at Comtes-Lafon, recently retired winemaker at Leflaive, and a master negociant in his own right, this is what a prodigy looks like all grown up. Wisdom in liquid form. - White Chablis 1er Cru 'La Forest' 1995, Dauvissat | $260
Unabashed power and density that drinks at a Grand Cru level for beaucoup moins d'argent, know what we're sayin'? Excellent 1er Cru juice from one of the legends. Bust out the Amex. - Red Pommard 1er Cru “Les Rugiens” 1997, Vincent Girardin | $145
Pommard always needs some time to come around and play nice and this 1er cru ofrom one of the most reliable guys in Burgundy is in the prime of its life. Excellent value at $145. - Red Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru 'Aux Reignots' 1999, Sylvain Cathiard | $295
- One of the true craftsmen of Burgundy, Sylvain Cathiard's Aux Reiginots is always an elegant effort. True classic Burg from a classic vintage. Give it a whirl in the decanter.
- Sparkling Brut Rose, NV, Billecart-Salmon | $169
- Crowd pleaser
- White Vire-Clesse 2006, Andre Bonhomme | $55
- Red Pinot Noir 'Santa Barbara County' 2008, Au Bon Climat | $55
- Oh the Shame!
- Red Pinot Noir “Seven Springs”, 2000, St. Innocent | $150
There were other wines on the list that we felt were crossing into an unforgivably high-priced zone, but this one was the most glaring. Anymore than $100 for this bottle is a slap in the face.
- Red Pinot Noir “Seven Springs”, 2000, St. Innocent | $150
- House Wine Stats
- 25 wines available by the glass at an average price of $14.36
- Krug Index
- N/A
We understand that good wine lists are constantly being updated. We keep in touch with restaurants to make sure we have the best information available, but we really need your feedback. If something's missing or changed, please tell us!
