Bar Henry
- Rating:
- Address:
- 90 West Houston Street New York, NY 10012
- Phone:
- 646-448-4559
- Good for:
- French, Italian, Old World, Great Value, Mature vintages
List review date: December 20, 2009
List Summary
West Houston is a graveyard for all but the likes of Dos Caminos, dive bars, and drunken college students that have spilled over from Macdougal. Needless to say, it isn’t exactly a place we expect to find a well thought-out wine haven. In fact, the last attempt at such a thing (Centovini) passed away just a few months ago.Enter Bar Henry. Most of the major blogs have been out dropping endorsements of this newbie for its décor and snuggle-worthy fare—Urban Daddy effectively called it “something of an anti-Minetta,” which, if you ask us, is a welcome addition, as we could all use a protagonist when it comes to Minetta’s saga of snobbery. However, the two do have one thing in common: a forward-thinking wine list. And, while we still have plenty of romantic loyalty to resident wonderboy, Chris Goodhart, we must admit feeling compelled to shift our adoration toward the charitable risk employed at Bar Henry.
Let us explain. More than half of the entire wine list (219 selections in all) is—brace yourself—offered by the half bottle, which, in this case, doesn’t mean what you might expect. For example, let’s say you feel like a bottle of ’96 Sociando Mallet, but you don’t feel like paying the $125 for the full bottle—no problem; they’ll open the bottle, serve half for you, and charge you $63. What happens to the other half of the bottle, you might ask? After all, it’s not as if they’re simply pouring everyday wines that can be pumped and served the day after—they’re pouring vintage wines reaching back through the 80s, most of which will be dead by morning. Well, each time a bottle is opened and half is abandoned, the wine goes up on the chalkboard to be offered by the glass. As the evening progresses, the list expands, and by the end of the night there might be upwards of 20+ (stellar) wines by the glass. We’ve seriously considered adopting a new route wherein we stop by at both 8pm and 10pm each night just to check the board. Either that or coerce Bar Henry into creating a ticker that alerts WineChap whenever a new wine is added by the glass. We just can’t help glowing with excitement. After all, it isn’t everyday that a restaurant is willing to take a risk like this with 1/3 or more of their potential profit.
Beyond this “market list,” Bar Henry sports a traditional, full-bottle-only reserve list that is nothing short of impressive in its vintage depth. The majority of the wines hail from the 90s, with a handful or more representing the decade of decadence (see: Motley Crüe). It goes long on Piedmont and Burgundy, with the Northern Rhone and Bordeaux close behind. If you aren’t already wondering how the hell they’ve done it, the selection of Bdx—all originating in either ’85, ’86, or ’89—will have you questioning whether or not a felony was committed in the acquisition of this collection.
Quite simply one of most exciting lists to cross our desk in some time.
- By The Glass
- Sparkling Blanc de Blancs NV, Diebolt Vallois | $19
- White Givry 2007, Thenard | $14
- Red Terra Alta ‘Sexto’ 2006, Heron | $10
- By The Half
- White Chassagne-Montrachet 2005, Ramonet | $33/17
- Red Bandol 2006, Tempier | $44/22
- Red Rioja Reserva ‘Ardanza’ 2000, La Rioja Alta | $30/15
- Sweet Auslese ‘Wehlener Sonnenhur’ 1993, Dr. Loosen | $99
- Value Option
- Sparkling Grand Cuvee MV, Krug | $65 (375ml)
Whose blood pressure doesn’t rise at the sight of Krug? Not to mention this is about as cheap as this classic gets. Tactical date opener. - White Givry Blanc 2007, Thenard | $47/24
Virtually unknown in the US, Thenard has been churning out fantastic traditional Burg from some of the finest vineyards in all of the region. His Givry Blanc is rarely seen, as most of the village’s production is dedicated to red. A fine argument for Chard in this area: mineral-driven, focused, and food friendly. - White Montlouis Demi Sec ‘Tuffeaux’ 2006, Chidaine | $47/24
Domaine Chidaine produces some of the coolest au natural Chenin in the Loire Valley, and this off-dry, highly aromatic gem stands at the nearly-confidential Montlouis appellation. Honeyed, floral, and bracingly acidic. - Red Nebbiolo d’Alba ‘Dogna’ 2004, Pasquero | $51/26
One of our favorite—and most modest—Piemontese producers. This here bottling showcases the more approachable (yet still elegant and aromatically complex) side of Nebbiolo. Totally organic/biodynamic and full of forward red fruit and earth. - Red Chinon ‘Granges’ 2007, Baudry | $36/18
Baudry’s wines are laughably cheap for the kind of singularity and balance they express. One of the great all-around wine values. The 07s from Chinon are all about the immediate embrace. Disarming, fruit forward, mineral-driven, and prime for immediate consumption. - Red Haut Medoc 1985, Chateau de Fieuzal | $99/50
Excellent pricing on a small under the radar Bdx that’s drinking at its zenith. Chateau Fiezual’s wines—though not in Bordeaux’s upper echelon—show tremendous charm and finesse once mature. - Red Haut Medoc 1996, Chateau Sociando Mallet | $125/63
Sociando always drinks above its class at a price point that Bdx is altogether unfamiliar with. This dense, expressive effort from the legendary 1996 vintage will drink to impress after a quick dip in the decanter.
- Sparkling Grand Cuvee MV, Krug | $65 (375ml)
- 1st Date
- White Savennieres Roche Aux Moines 1991, Domaine Aux Moines | $78/39
Amazing 18-year-old Cheny that sports serious complexity at this price point. Still highly vivacious, aromatic, and earthy. One of the list’s great values. - White Riesling Smaragd ‘Hochrain’ 2001, Hirtzberger | $86/43
Incredible. One of the greatest German/Austrian vintages in recent years, and Hirtzberger has run with it. Nearly preposterous aromatic intensity and a dense, almost oily palate scattered with minerals and balanced by searing acidity. - Red Savigny-Les-Beaune 1er Cru ‘Narbontons 2002, Ecard | $99/50
Fabulous producer of 1er Cru Savigny. Although rich and altruistic upon release, Maurice Ecard’s wines gain complexity with a little time in-bottle. Dense fruit at the core framed by a thoroughly complex periphery. - Red Chianti Classico Riserva 1998, Monsanto | $78/39
Monsanto practically invented Chianti Classico: it was the first wine to have the name and still remains one of the best. Il Poggio is the gem in their crown and is only bottled in the finest vintages. Beautiful forward red fruit, delicate floral aromatics, and loads of Monsanto dirt.
- White Savennieres Roche Aux Moines 1991, Domaine Aux Moines | $78/39
- Off the Beaten Track
- Red Primitivo ‘Raspay’ 2003, Quiles | $47/24
Traditional and classic Alicante wine. Made from low-yielding Monastrell vines and vinified in old oak barrels for a prolonged period of time, this wine is intense, jammy, and slightly oxidized. Unique nerd juice.
- Red Primitivo ‘Raspay’ 2003, Quiles | $47/24
- Old School Classic
- Red Volnay 1er Cru ‘Fremiets’ 1995, Marquis d’Angerville | $114
- Red Barolo ‘Rocche’ 1979, Brovia | $203
- Red Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1982, Il Poggione | $338
- Red Chambertin Grand Cru 1990, J. Trapet | $307
- Treat Yourself
- White Chablis Grand Cru ‘Preuses’ 1994, Dauvissat | $156
Classic top-tier Chablis from one of the legends. The ’94s are in a hell of a spot right now, and this is certainly no exception. Loud, forward, and precise on the palate. - Red Cote Rotie ‘Vieilles Vignes’ 2001, Texier | $125/63
Relatively new on the scene, Texier is already gaining buzz for his raw, biodynamic Syrah. A throwback to the N. Rhone wines from the 70s—that is, those that showed true elegance on a Burgundian scale. Beautiful, old school Syrah: the way God intended it to be. - Red Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Corbeaux’ 1999, Bachelet | $182
Cult producer whose acolytes increase in number by the nanosecond. Fantastic Gevrey from one of our favorite (relatively) recent vintages. Fragrant, herbaceous, and full, complete with grip and structure. - Red Morey St. Denis 1999, Dujac | $166
Dujac is one of the most storied, expensive, and sought after producers in the Cote du Nuits. He makes definably traditional Burgs built for immortality. However, this village-level Morey Saint Denis will play nice if just given a whirl in the decanter. Structured, earthy, and ultimately defined by that Dujac polish. Pricing is fantastic to boot. - Red Pauillac 1986, Chateau Lynch Bages | $307
Strong yet restrained Cab-dominated Bordeaux. Lynch Bages is technically a “5th Growth” in the Bdx classification, but it is widely considered to be one of the Bordeaux greats. Here from the stellar ’96 vintage, and once again at fantastic pricing. Needs a little decant to tickle the fancy. - Red Barolo ‘Lazzarito’ 1990, Vietti | $260
Vietti’s most modern interpretation of Nebbiolo (employing the use of both new French oak and old Slovenian oak barrels), here from the classic 1990 vintage. Powerful enough to fuel a cruise ship, without sacrificing the elegance we so desire from the varietal.
- White Chablis Grand Cru ‘Preuses’ 1994, Dauvissat | $156
- Crowd pleaser
- White Riesling 2007, Mittnacht | $47/24
- Red Ribera del Duero Montecastrillo ‘Roble’ 2007, Torremilanos | $34/17
- House Wine Stats
- Anywhere from 12 – 20+ wines offered by the glass per night. Average price will vary.
- Krug Index
- $65 (375ml)
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