Tribeca Grill
- Rating:
- Address:
- 375 Greenwich Street New York, NY 10013
- Phone:
- 212-941-3900
- Good for:
- French, USA, Old World, Mature vintages
List review date: February 15, 2010
List Summary
Tribeca Grill is essentially the Cheers of the NYC wine scene. Hundreds of wine dinners, tastings, awards ceremonies, wine orgies, etc. are held here each year, and as a result, the 8,000 square foot space—which includes multiple banquet rooms and a screening den—is one swimming pool and putting green short of a Greenwich, CT country club. Thankfully, the food (although far from groundbreaking) is a step above the usual club fare: Cobb salads, nouveau chicken fingers, and haute BLTs. And forget the Clos Du Bois and Kendall Jackson spritzers; the wine list is reserved for those with padded back pockets and a lack of restraint, so leave your penchant for do-it-yourself wine coolers at home.You’ll want to go long here, and you’ll want do it in style. Not since Veritas have we seen a collection of Chateauneuf du Pape like this, and not since Hearth have we seen such a deep collection of Riesling from Germany and Austria—and not once ever have we seen a wine available that is over 100 years old (see: 1900 Chateau Margaux). But that’s just the short of it. Overall, the list weaves through every corner of the globe, stopping to focus on the likes of Germany, the Southern Rhone, and Burgundy. Bordeaux and the Northern Rhone are a bit thin in comparison, and although we’d love to see a bit more from the latter, we are already cross-eyed after 10 pages of Chateauneuf du Pape. It’s not exactly a problem, but it should be noted that by the end of 51 pages and more than 1,800 selections, we’re left tired, dizzy, and fantasizing a lottery win. We tend to enter this state particularly after reading the list’s last act, which is titled “Wines of the Century,” and is pretty much just exactly what it sounds like: 9 of the greatest wines produced in the last 100 years, from that 1900 Margaux to ’90 Rayas. In addition, the list features a page dedicated to “The Great 1990 Vintage” (Rhone heavy), and a list of Wine Spectator’s “Wine of the Year” from 1988-2008, and although we admit to being slightly annoyed by the endorsement of the magazine’s choices (Not one Burgundy chosen in the last 20 years? C’mon, Spectator.), the section is unique and priced well given the demand that each of the wines has enjoyed.
In fact, the entire list is priced with care; the low-end markups are standard to slim, and the high-end (i.e. the collection of wines that stand as monuments to the art of winemaking) are, in many cases, priced below retail. There simply isn’t much to criticize here. In fact, the only thing we are truly pondering is why we’ve so far forgotten to congratulate this wine program and the superstar behind it: David Gordon. It is easily one of the top ten wine lists in the city, and just about the only country club we’ve ever wanted to join.
- By The Half
- Sparkling Cuvee Classique Brut NV, Alfred Gratien | $65
- Red Syrah ‘Eisele’ 1998, Araujo | $85
- Value Option
- White Vina Tondonia Reserva Bianco 1989, Lopez de Heredia | $70
It doesn’t get anymore old school than this. Back vintage Viura Huge: slightly oxidized, viscous, and stuffed with savory sweet aromatics that carry through to the palate. A meal in and of itself. - White Riesling Kabinett ‘Scharzhofberger’ 1999, Egon Muller | $60
Ranked among the top Mosel producers for this very bottling. Medium-bodied with a tinge of sweetness. Perfumed and downright arousing. Penny for penny, the finest value on the list. - White Riesing Kabinett ‘Estate’ 2004, Keller | $51
One of our fave producers of Riesling—not to mention one that isn’t exactly moonlighting on every list in town. This entry level dry ‘Sling from the excellent ’04 vintage is pure, aromatic, and precise. Glittery stuff worth every cent. - White Santenay ‘La Comme’ 2003, Chateau de la Maltroye | $60
Although Santenay is known for its reds, a few excellent white Burgs (a more recent phenomenon) have managed to sneak out of the village. This is an excellent example of the increasing promise of the Chard grown here—medium-bodied and fruit-forward with a distinct, earthy Maltroye-ness. - Red Cotes du Rhone 2008, Janasse | $38
Small, organically farmed estate putting out modest wines that always drink beyond their price point. Warm, open, floral, and near impossible to dislike. - Red Chateauneuf du Pape ‘Vieilles Vignes’ 2001, Eric Texier | $70
Relatively new to the scene, Texier is already gaining buzz for his raw, biodynamic wines. A throwback to the Rhone wines of the 70s—that is, those that showed true elegance on a Burgundian scale. Beautiful, old school Chaty Pape that is just starting to rust. - Red Chateauneuf du Pape 1999, Pignan | $100
Pignan has descended from the royal house of Rayas. The wines from this estate are fabled to grant immortality. Not quite, but they are transcendent, and this second label offers an affordable peek at greatness. Pure, brilliant fruit and trademark CdP funk.
- White Vina Tondonia Reserva Bianco 1989, Lopez de Heredia | $70
- 1st Date
- White Bourgogne Blanc 1999, Leroy | $75
One of the most cache-driven names in the wine world, Leroy makes big, expressive and wholly enjoyable wines that you almost always have to be on an expense account to enjoy. Although known for her reds, Lalou-Bize—Leroy’s expert hand—works miracles with Chard just the same. Open and expressive wine from the excellent ’99 vintage. - Red Gigondas 2001, Domaine les Pallieres | $70
Run by the Brunier Brothers of the legendary Vieux Telegraphe estate in Chateaneuf du Pape, this wine embodies the true potential of Gigondas. It may hail from just next door to its more famous neighbor, but Gigo is capable of owning the same interplay of grit and finesse. Pure, herbaceous, and thoroughly rugged. A rarity considering the age on it—exceptional pricing to boot.
- White Bourgogne Blanc 1999, Leroy | $75
- Off the Beaten Track
- Red Vin de pays de Bouches du Rhone 1992, Domaine de Trevallon | $175
A Vin de Pays from Provence, a.k.a. an “illegal” combination that has become a cult favorite in France. Great smoke and dark red fruit—made for meat, butter, and bedroom. Here at 18 years out, drinking like flannel.
- Red Vin de pays de Bouches du Rhone 1992, Domaine de Trevallon | $175
- Old School Classic
- White Corton Charlemagne 1999, Coche Dury | $1300
- Red Chambertin 1989, Armand Rousseau | $750
- Red Chambolle Musigny Premier Cru 1978, Camille Giroud | $450
- Red Bonnes Mares 1999, Roumier | $750
- Red Richebourg 1989, Meo Camuzet | $1275
- Red Chateauneuf du Pape 1990, Chateau Rayas | $1200
- Treat Yourself
- White Riesling Auslese ‘Urziger Wurzgarten’ 1971, JJ Christoffel Erben | $225
One of the greatest German vintages of all time here translated by one of the leading Mosel estates. Known for their vibrancy and focus, Christoffel’s wines can be downright panic-inducing. This is a small price to pay to experience Riesling history. - White Meursault 1999, Coche Dury | $325
Coche Dury. No need to say anymore (but we will). A Burgundy legend producing some of the greatest Chardonnay on earth. This is an excellent opportunity to take a peek via this village-level Meursault from the excellent ’99 vintage. Beautifully sound, aromatic, magic. - White Chablis ‘Montee de Tonerre’ 1999, Francois Raveneau | $210
Raveneau also needs no introduction. He is the master of all things Chablis. This ’99 1er cru could use a bit more time in bottle, but it will show off after a short orientation with the decanter. - Red Morey St. Denis 1996, Dujac | $250
Dujac is another of the most storied, expensive, and sought after producers in the Cote du Nuits. Dujac makes definably traditional burgs built for immortality. This ’96 is just beginning to act like a grown up at 14 years out—all flowers, spice, and earth. - Red Dominus Estate 1987, Dominus | $300
Bordeaux-style blend from the famed Christian Moueix of Chateau Petrus. Very rare to find this wine with 20+ years on it. 1987 was a great year for CA Cab, and this baby testifies. Full of Napa dust, flowers, and intact fruit. - Red Pauillac 1986, Lynch Bages | $360
Strong yet restrained Cab-dominated Bordeaux. Lynch Bages is technically a “5th Growth” in the Bdx classification, but it is widely considered to be one of Bordeaux’s greats, and the ’86 is drinking like ??? - Red Brunello di Montalcino Riserva ‘Intistieti’ 1995, Soldera | $385
Gianfranco is one of the best—if not the best—producers of traditional Brunelli in all of Italy. A sleeper vintage for Montalcino and one that showcases the lean, sheer beauty of Soldera’s wines. - Red Cotes du Rhone 1990, Chateau de Fonsalette | $210
Here is one of the domains in Emille Reynaud’s high-class brood (one of the others being the iconic Chateau Rayas) that proves to be old school stuff—no temp control, no new wood, etc. Not your average Cotes du Rhone, either; this is serious wine built for the haul. Drinking in its zone now. - Red Chateauneuf du Pape ‘La Crau’ 1989, Vieux Telegraphe | $195
This is the zenith for rustic, old school CdP, here from a legendary vintage for the region. A perfect argument for that little thing called “terroir.” Bloody, smoky, barnyard-laced divinity.
- White Riesling Auslese ‘Urziger Wurzgarten’ 1971, JJ Christoffel Erben | $225
- Crowd pleaser
- White Muller Thurgau Trocken 2008, Schloss Muhlenhoff | $30
- Red Garnacha 2007, Nita | $52
- Infanticide
- White Montrachet 2005, Domaine de la Romanee Conti | $3500
Brilliant, Rare, but not ready to rock for another decade.
- White Montrachet 2005, Domaine de la Romanee Conti | $3500
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