Terroir
- Rating:
- Address:
- 413 East 12th Street New York, NY 10009
- Phone:
- 646-602-1300
- Good for:
- Old World, Quirky, Biodynamic / Organic
List review date: February 25, 2010
List Summary
Paul Grieco—wine’s king of the obscure, master of the far-flung, and custodian of the bizarre—lets his hair down and shakes it around at Terroir. Both Hearth and the now non-affiliated Insieme are ambitious restaurants with high-end clientele, and although Grieco’s evangelical literary approach to those lists was anything but commonplace, it seems that he was just getting warmed up. Terroir, given both locale and format, has proved to be more of a blank slate for Grieco, and as a result his role has become more revolutionary than evangelist. At once political, humorous, literary, and academic, Terroir’s three-ring binder has a wild playfulness and a sage sense of experience that makes you feel as if you’re peeking into the grown-up brain of a former high-school rebel.When Terroir opened in March of 2008, the list was far more compact than it is today. It was all about the wines by the glass then, and although the list has evolved into numerous pages that offer some of the greatest wines in the world (see: From The Cellar of A Distinguished Gentleman, The Glory of Rouge Burgundy, etc.), much of its charm still lays in those few opening pages. With over 50 wines available by both the glass and the 3 oz. taste, Greico has found a way to showcase not only wine’s underground rebels (a lá La Mothe), but also those that wouldn’t necessarily be associated with quirky allure; in WineChap’s many visits over the years, each time we snuggled up the bar we managed to leave surprised, pleasantly, by one wine or another.
But we want to be careful of not coming off as if we are dismissing the rest of the list. The meat of the thing is thick, juicy, and downright impressive. With over three pages of Riesling (including both a page and exposé dedicated to the enigmatic Schloss Johannisberg), as well as plenty of back vintage Burgundy, Bordeaux, Barolo, etc., there is plenty to satisfy those strolling in with an unusually large back pocket. And for those budget-conscious folks: hang out in the Cool Whites and Smoking Reds sections, where you’ll find an endlessly exciting, expertly chosen, and perfectly priced roster of wines ranging from California Chardonnay to Casavecchia.
And back to Grieco’s famed page dedications (like the aforementioned one on Schloss Johannisberg): they live on at Terroir. They are constantly rotating and always impressive, but even as they change, the ideology remains consistent. There is a genuine interest in sharing information about wines that are not only personally important to Grieco, but those that are (or will be) important to the wine world—those wines, varieties, and regions that are either misunderstood, legendary, or deserve more attention. (See: Cahors, Bartolo Mascarello, and Chateau Musar, respectively).
Grieco’s clear enthusiasm for wine and undying quest to educate is what dubbed him NYC’s wine evangelist to begin with, but it’s Terroir’s unapologetic and often edgy selection of wines—as well as Grieco’s spirited defense of them—that have come to color him revolutionary. And lucky for us, his beliefs in somewhere-ness, individualism, and sincere winemaking are leading NYC’s wine culture to war with monotony.
- By The Glass
- White Riesling 2002, Forstreiter | $11.50/6.00
- White Furmint ‘Lapis’ 2007, Zoltan Demeter | $14.00/7.25
- White Chateau-Chalon 1986, Berthet-Blondet | $28.00
- Red Crozes-Hermitage ‘Esquisse’ 2007, Hauts Chassis | $14.00/7.25
- Red Syrah ‘Wylie Fenaughty’ 2005, Edmunds St. John | $15.50/8.00
- Red Mondeuse 2007, Domaine Labbe | $10.00/5.25
- Fortified Malvasia Reserva 1954, Barbeito | $50
- Fortified Amontillado VORS ‘Del Duque NV, Gonzales Byass | $18
- By The Half
- Red Pinot Noir ‘Guadalupe Vineyard’ 2006, Ken Wright | $55
- Value Option
- White Riesling Kabinett ‘Erbacher Marcobrunn’ 2000, Schloss Schonborn | $49
A terribly difficult vintage for both the Rheingau and the Mosel, but in the hands of an expert, that can translate to tremendous value, i.e. the equivalent of pick-pocketing Paul Grieco. Waxy, rich, and expressive. Drinking in its zone at present. - White Riesling Spatlese ‘Wehlener Sonnenhur’ 2004, J.J. Prum | $55
There are German winemakers and then there is JJ Prüm, a producer in a category all its own. Mouth-watering, citrus-drenched slate from the excellent 2004 vintage, here at a charitable mark-up. - White Samling 88 ‘Mea Culpa’ 2008, Kogl | $45
Slovenian wines are now a standard feature on the lists of most Italian restaurants, but they’ve been slow to show on those of the city’s more fusion-friendly eateries. This Schreube (Samling in Slovenia) is fabulously aromatic and impeccably balanced with plenty of up front fruit and vibrant acidity. Excellent with anything oceanic. - White La Mothe NV, Pechigo | $46
Excellent value from the little-explored region of Limoux. Here an improbable blend of Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Mauzac. Rich, super aromatic, and slightly oxidized. Geeky stuff. - White Riesling Spatlese ‘Bockenauer Felseneck’ 2006, Schafer Frohlich | $72
One of the rising stars of Nahe. Dusty winery (been around since the 1800s) that is just now on its way to taking on the big two: Donhoff and Schonleber. There is a feral quality to Frohlich’s wines that we love—funky and honeyed with remarkable depth. Fantastic effort from this exceptional vintage. - Red Cote Rotie 2001, Bernard Burgaud | $56
Killer traditional pure Syrah (no Viognier added). Pure, organic, perfumed, and here on clearance. - Red Chateauneuf du Pape 1999, Domaine de la Cote de l’Ange | $54
A fairly new estate that has gained recent recognition. Will blow your head off on release, but at 11 years old, this is mellow and perfumed with a heavy dose of Chatty funk. - Red Casavecchia 2004, Villa Carafa | $48
Villa Carafa is one of the region’s great value-driven producers, here providing us with a polished, structured rendition of this dusty grape—the grape itself is one of the many ancient Roman varietals re-cultivated in Campania over the last decade or so. Full-bodied and nearly opaque, with tons of dark fruit, graphite, and menthol.
- White Riesling Kabinett ‘Erbacher Marcobrunn’ 2000, Schloss Schonborn | $49
- 1st Date
- White Riesling 1996, Stony Hill | $82
Hailing from a high-elevation camp northwest of St. Helena, these grapes stay cool enough to retain a significant level of acidity and a freshness we so love about grapes raised in their spiritual home. Crisp, impressive little number from this classically-minded estate. - Red Cahors 1989, Chateau du Cayrou | $97
Despite the fact that Cahors isn’t exactly known for its regional elegance, Chateau Cayrou, which belongs to a family that has been making wine in the area since 1610, is all finesse. At 21 years old, this has tons of complexity for the coin.
- White Riesling 1996, Stony Hill | $82
- Off the Beaten Track
- White Galea 2003, I Clivi | $52
A rare trinket from the Friulian underground. Organic old vine Tocai and Verduzzo vinified via non-interventionist tactics. Funky, earthy, and dark in color due to extended macerations. - Red Cotes de Meliton 1990, Chateau Carras | $250
Considered one of the greatest Greek wines on the market. Originally developed by the famed French oenologist Emile Peynaud, this is a rare opportunity to dig into top-flight Greek juice with some wisdom.
- White Galea 2003, I Clivi | $52
- Old School Classic
- White Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru 1996, Domaine Leflaive | $1300
- Red Brunello di Montalcino 1999, Costanti $199 | $199
- Red Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2002, Armand Rousseau | $218
- Red Barolo Riserva 1961, Bartolo Mascarello | $1452
- Red Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 1985, Jean Grivot | $495
- Treat Yourself
- Sparkling Brut Cuvee Laetitia MV, Billiot | $195
A formal nod to the master of terroir-driven, off the wall bubbly. Vinified via the solera method (a lá sherry), this blend of 20+ vintages dating back to 1983 is intense, layered, and rad. - White Riesling Spatlese ‘Dorsheimer Goldloch’ 1997, Diel | $110
One of the most respected estates in the Nahe, Diel makes excellent terroir-driven ‘sling. This wine, at 23, is still all liquid gold. An excellent deal at $110. - White Riesling Spatlese ‘Grunlack’ 1964, Schloss Johannisberg | $168
Riesling greatness in the truest sense. At 46-years-old, this still boasts a brilliance and vibrancy that only Riesling can own. From one of the oldest and most respected producers in all of Germany, this baby is a fine argument for the supremacy of the variety (i.e. a whole-lotta wine for the coin). - White Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Clavoillon’ 1996, Domaine Leflaive | $310
No conversation about ethereal Burgundy is complete without mention of Leflaive’s heady whites. This is just tumbling into its zone and is almost dreamlike at this pricing. Pair with satyrs and tree gnomes. - White Gruner Veltliner ‘Brunnthal’ 1985, Leth | $148
Gruner Veltliner is known for its youthful food-friendly spunk, but it’s the scribe-like elder years of the finest GruVes that always get us googly-eyed. Incredible expression of Wachau terrior from one of Leth’s track-stopping single-vineyard bottlings. Broad, open, rich, and still holding tight to that youthful acidity. - Red Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru 1990, Bruno Clair | $222
Easily one of the best values o nthe entire lists. Exceptional grand Cru Burg from a classic producer . hailing from one of the great vintages of the 90’s. - Red Hermitage 2000, Bernard Faurie | $225
Killer value on well-made traditional Syrah. Still a little grumpy upon opening, but will open up swiftly. Let him take a spin in the decanter, then sip with red flesh. - Red Chateauneuf du Pape ‘Pignan Reserve’ 1995, Chateau Rayas | $305
Pignan has descended from the royal house of Rayas, and the wines from this estate are fabled to grant immortality. Okay, not quite, but they are transcendent, and this second label offers a more affordable (relatively, of course) peek at greatness. Pure, brilliant fruit, and trademark CdP funk from this stellar vintage. - Red Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2000, Valentini | $325
Without a doubt one of the rarest, most storied wines in the world. Like Northern Rhone Syrah on steroids with a heavy dose of funk—a transcendent, singular elixir. Excellent pricing to boot.
- Sparkling Brut Cuvee Laetitia MV, Billiot | $195
- Crowd pleaser
- White Muscat ‘Ca del Solo’ 2008, Bonny Doon | $48
- Red Monastrell ‘M1’ 2008, Diego Fernandez | $34
- Infanticide
- Red Tignanello 2004, Antinori | $230
- House Wine Stats
- 38 wines available by the glass at an average price of $12.89; 34 wines available by the 3oz taste at an average price of $6.80
- Krug Index
- $290
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