Welcome to WineChap’s newest new column “Talking Shop” wherein we visit the city’s top retailers to find out a bit about the history of the shop, the staff, the wines, and any secret crucial info we happen to collect. You’ll generally find a few photos, a video interview with the owner, and a whole slew of wine recommendations. This week: Zachary Sussman visits Astor Wines & Spirits.
One way to think about Astor Wines & Spirits— perhaps the largest retail shop in New York— is that it’s actually several stores in one. Are you in the market for an easy-drinking Argentinian Malbec? A biodynamic, no-sulfur-added bottle of Pineau d’Aunis from one of the Loire’s most eccentric winemakers? Mature blue-chip Bordeaux? Something in between?
Invariably, Astor’s got you covered. Here the obligatory jug of Gallo or Yellow Tail shares shelf space with a wide spectrum of natural and organic wines from France and Italy, all kinds of New World wonders, and a host of rare collectibles from iconic producers like Mascarello or Dujac. So, as much as we relish the healthy range of retail options available in our fair vinopolis (hence this column!), one could easily shop exclusively at Astor without missing out on very much.
As with so many aspects of New York life, however, the limitless range of available choices presents a bit of a paradox. How should you, dear reader, chart your way through this delectable oenological labyrinth?
One safe bet is to head straight for the “cool room,” a glass-encased, temperature-controlled chamber designed to store the shop’s more precious offerings. As a rule, this doesn’t just mean mature (i.e., super spend-y) offerings from Bordeaux, Piedmont and Burgundy; in fact, this closet of chills equally houses a broad selection of affordable natural and organic wines from Italy and France, a category which we applaud the store for embracing with growing enthusiasm.
Of course, you could always just take any of the following recommendations, culled from our own personal experience or else dished straight from Astor’s knowledgeable staff.
Crucial Intel: Free tastings (weekdays from 6 to 8 pm and Saturdays from 3 to 5 pm) and a broad spectrum of culinary/ wine education classes give you the chance to develop your palate while sharpening your skills in the kitchen.
VALUE:
Lorena’s Picks:
2009 Dom. de l’Enclos Blanc, Côtes de Gascogne $5.99
A no-brainer from a small estate in Gascony, France. Dry, crisp and very akin to a Sauvignon Blanc. Unoaked and all about the fresh fruit.
2008 Carignan, Poudou $6.96
A great wine that needs a lot of explaining but not because it’s not an easy wine to decipher by its label. Poudou is the producer’s name and Carignan is one of the many red grapes used to make wine in the south of France. Delicious, dark, unoaked and spicy with a rustic tannic finish. Food is a must and an easy pleaser for carnivores.
Valerie’s Picks:
Saumur Blanc, Réserve des Vignerons 2009 $7.96
Case of 12: $85.97
A dry Chenin Blanc that is beautifully aromatic, clean and crisp and extremely accessible. A great cocktail party wine that goes with a huge range of food.
Salice Salentino Riserva, Sigillus Primus 2004 $8.96
This southern Italian gem is absolutely perfect for every day consumption. It’s juicy and light on the palate, but can still hold up to foods like grilled sausage.
David’s Picks:
Est! Est!! Est!!!, Falesco, Lazio 2009 $7.99
Dry, crisp acidity, deliciously fruity and easy drinking. A totally enjoyable wine made from Trebbiano and Malvasia. For under $10 it’s hard to go wrong! Two Italian varietals down.
Chianti, Loggia del Conte, 2008 $7.96
If you are looking for a bargain wine to have with your next pizza here ya go. The bright acidity and cherry fruit of this basic Chianti will do the trick. Leave it to the Italians to make a wine of this quality at this incredible price.
Additional Wine Chap Picks:
Chateau La Grolet, Côtes du Bourg 2008 $11.96
A more-than-serviceable “right bank” Bordeaux from a bio-dynamic producer located just across the Gironde from Margaux. This hits all the right notes: plush fruit, medium-body, with just a touch of tannic edge to keep things lively
Weingut Günther Steinmetz Mosel Riesling 2009 $14.99
A whole liter of classic Riesling from Günther Steinmetz, one of our favorite Mosel producers who farms all organically. Characteristically low-alcohol and juicy with just a touch of residual sugar. Be careful not to guzzle down the entire bottle yourself.
FIRST DATE
Lorena’s Picks:
2009 Sparkling Blanc “Ze Bulle”, Zéro Pointé $12.96/bottle
A “must drink” – especially if you’re on a blind date and fear the worst! At least you’ll have some stellar wine to drink and nothing to regret. Nicely sparkling and a wine that exudes happiness and enjoyment. Floral with a tangy freshness that is a good test for anyone with any sense of taste.
2007 Colombaia, Rosso Toscano $21.99
On a first date, I wouldn’t even consider putting out the pretentious trophy wines. I’d rather stick with meaningful classics like this Tuscan red wine that boasts a tremendous amount of character.
Valerie’s Picks:
Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine, Dom. de la Pepière 2009 $11.96
Expressive and aromatic, with nice minerals and a body that’s still mouth-filling. I have yet to find anyone who doesn’t like this wine, plus the winemaker looks kind of like Santa Claus.
Raisins Gaulois, Marcel Lapierre 2009 $11.99
I always think a lighter style, juicy red is a safe bet when choosing a wine to share with a new person. This Gamay from recently passed Marcel Lapierre shows an amazing purity of character and was created in the belief that wine is meant to be fun and enjoyable; hopefully the same sentiment you want to pass along to your date about yourself! Bonus: the cartoon label is a conversation piece!
Additional Wine Chap Picks:
Crémant de Jura, Domaine de Montbourgeau NV $20.99
On first dates, we feel that bubble should be de rigeur. Yeasty, nutty and clean, this Chardonnay-based sparkler from the Jura’s legenary Domaine de Montbourgeau is the closest thing to Champagne you’ll find for the dollar.
Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc 2005 $34.97
This Bordeaux is sheer class: a dying breed of wine from this region, which prides delicacy and finesse over the modern trend toward brawn and extraction. If only all Bordeaux could follow suit!
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
Lorena’s Picks:
2006 Jurançon sec “Vitatge Viehl”, Clos Lapeyre $23.99
A très meaningful bottle of white wine that will serve you best when drinking with people appreciative of its subtle yet giving nature. Think of white flowers and honey. Add to that gorgeous texture and you’ll be happily satiated.
“Adonis” La Grapperie NV $26.99
A scrumptious red wine that’s full of character and made from a little-known grape named Pineau d’Aunis. Nothing most people would know about but certainly something us wine folk like to hoard to ourselves. Full of aromas of red peppercorns, black peppercorns and flowers. One of those wines that changes by the minute in the glass – a sign of quality. Every time you go back to it, you’re tasting a new wine.
Valerie’s Picks:
Jamesport Vineyards Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2009 $16.99
This Sauvignon Blanc from the North Fork of Long Island is an amazing example of the strides and accomplishments of NY winemaking. It’s zippy and refreshing, aromatic and complex.
P’tit Rouquin ” Les Vins Contés” VdT, O. Lemasson 2009 $12.96
This Loire Gamay is an amazing example of how accessible organic and natural wines can be. Bright and juicy, but with a touch of earth and natural “funk”, it really sings with a plate of saucisson.
David’s Picks:
Bianchino, Valli Unite, 2008 $11.99
This little wine is 100% Cortese and was made to satisfy the wine maker’s neighbors. Its earthy aromas are full of baked pear and on the palate it displays bright acidity, pear fruit, earth and quince.
Piedirosso “Campi Flegrei,” La Sibilla 2009 $11.99
Grown on its original root stock in the volcanic, sandy soils of the Campi Flegrei region of Campania (just west of Naples), Piedirosso means “red foot” and this red grape is so named because the shape of its clusters resembles a foot.
Additional Wine Chap Picks:
Thalassitis Santorini, Gai’a 2009 $23.99
We’ve long felt that Greek wines have suffered from serious neglected. Produced from the indigenous Assyrtiko grape, this embodies the island of Santorini’s volcanic terroir, balancing richness and weight with minerals, spice and an almost impossible acidity.
Babiole VdP de l’Ardeche, Calek 2008 $21.99
A wild offering from lunatic Czech natural wine fanatic Andrea Calek, who lives in a trailer among his vines, this a blend of Syrah, Carignan and Grenache will inspire you to cast off the shackles of the daily grind and defect to the Ardecehe too.
TREAT YOURSELF
NV Vilmart “Cuvée Rubis” Rosé Brut Champagne $61.97
The type of Champagne that’s a meal in and of itself. The type of Champagne I drink throughout my meal. The type of Champagne that even self-acclaimed “non Champagne drinkers” will love. Vinous and so giving and rich yet still dry enough on the palate.
Chandon de Briailles Corton “Bressandes” Grand Cru Rouge 1999 $119.99/bottle
Aged wine is always a treat and when it comes from this producer in Burgundy, you just can’t say no. The winery Chandon de Briailles repeatedly makes the type of wine that can make you weepy with joy. Another hoarder!
Valerie’s Picks:
St. Aubin Blanc 1er Cru “Sur Gamay”, Prudhon 2005 $26.96
I think St. Aubin is an overlooked region in Burgundy, producing astounding wines. This is particular is an intensely aromatic, complex and big white. It’s smoky, in a good way, like wafts of wood burning fire in a cool fall night. This is a wine that requires some time and thought, and for me, it’s certainly a treat!
Savigny-lès-Beaune, Chandon de Briailles 2007 $33.99
Burgundy offers such a wide range of “splurge” wines that can appeal to every palate: younger, older, delicate, bolder— all amazing offerings of Pinot Noir. The young, delicate style is my vice, and this particular Savigny does the trick. Plus I love that it’s a female winemaker!
David’s Picks:
Fiorduva Costa d’Amalfi Furore Bianco, Cuomo, 2008 $66.99
This wine from the well traveled Amalfi Coast is a treat. Made from late harvest grapes it is fermented in oak for a about 3 months. The result is a wine with a rich yellow to golden color that exhibits a tropical nose, apricots and hints of lowers. On the palate the wine is rich and dense and tastes of dried apricots, raisins and dried fruit.
Barolo, Brovia, 2005, $41.96
Young Baroli are often a mouthful of tannins and ready to drink Barolo’s will put a dent in your wallet. Here’s one made from younger vines of traditional estate Brovia’s top vineyards that is certainly worthy of drinking now. Grippy tannins and bright acidity.
Additional Wine Chap Picks:
Saumur Blanc “Brezé”, Clos Rougeard 2005 $71.97
The extremely rare white wine from (arguably) the most esteemed producer in the Loire, Rougeard’s take on chenin blanc is utterly masterful. Rich and honeyed, yet firm. Like drinking Goldilocks’ hair.
Cheateau Musar Rouge 1990 $168.99
CROWD PLEASER
Lorena’s Picks:
2009 St. Aldegunder Himmelreich, Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Stein $21.99
The green apples and mineral nature of this Riesling make this wine from the Stein winery such an easy wine to love – even for those people who think they don’t like Riesling!
2009 Burgenländer Rot, Pittnauer $12.96
A liter bottle with an unfortunate name. “Rot” means red in German and is pronounced rote. More importantly, this is stellar wine for crowds and small dinner parties alike. It’s from Austria and comes in a liter bottle and is truly they type of wine you should keep around the apartment for regular drinking. Austria’s answer to Beaujolais.
Valerie’s Picks:
Borgo Pinot Grigio “M” 2009 $12.96
You can wow any group with this gem, with its expressive flora and citrus aromas and its clean crisp flavor. This is not a flabby watery Pinot Grigio; it has character and texture.
Domaine Rimbert St. Chinian “Travers de Marceau” 2008 $13.99
It’s organic, but doesn’t have that natural funk that some wines have. On the contrary, it’s a blend of varietals including Carignan that in this particular region of France tends to display almost Pinot Noir characteristics. Fruity, light-to-medium-bodiedm with notes of sage and thyme.
Additional Wine Chap Picks:
Pierre Boniface Apremont 2009 $11.96
Like drinking bottled mountain air: 100% Jacquere from Savoie, light crisp and mineral.
Cahors, Clos Siguier 2007 $12.99
Atypically bright and juicy for the appellation, this Cahors still packs enough of a black-currant punch to make it a joy for anyone.
-Zachary Sussman
